“Power and Control”

At Dent Evo, we're committed to the meticulous craft of ADVANCED paintless dent removal, ensuring your vehicle's integrity is our top priority.

Methodical Precision: Harnessing The Glue Pull Method

In our latest video, watch me as I employ the pull rack and glue pull method with methodical precision. This technique grants its user unparalleled control, allowing them to address dented metal safely and efficiently.

Putting in the Work: Transforming Panels Safely

Holding the metal under tension enables me to meticulously reshape the panel, pushing, flattening, and pulling high and low spots back to their original form. Our dedication ensures a flawless restoration without compromising your Tesla fender's paint or structural integrity.

The Back Story: Rescuing a Tesla Fender from a Traffic Cone Encounter

My client's run-in with a traffic cone, resulted in a significant dent and minor scratches. Through our expert reshaping and polishing techniques, we preserved the original factory finish, sparing the vehicle from a lengthy stay at a body shop.

Have Questions about Dent Removal?

Curious about our process or the art of dent removal? Reach out! We're here to provide insightful answers and top-notch dent removal services tailored for your vehicle.

Thanks for reading!

Joe











- Dent removal techniques

- Glue pull method explained

- Meticulous panel reshaping

- Tesla fender restoration

- Dent removal without paint damage

- DentEvo expert services

- Traffic cone dent rescue

- Original factory finish preservation

- Top-notch Tesla dent repair

Innovating Auto Body Repair: My Journey with the Adjust-A-Post PDR Pull Rack

Welcome to Dent Evo Advanced PDR Shop in Upland, where practical innovation meets real-world experience in the realm of Paintless Dent Removal (PDR). Today, I'm thrilled to introduce you to a transformative solution - The Adjust-A-Post PDR Pull Rack. This remarkable creation has revolutionized the way I approach auto body repair, and I'm eager to share its benefits with you.

Innovating out of Necessity

My journey began in the field as a mobile PDR technician, facing the everyday challenge of creating tension for efficient repairs. I improvised by strapping glue tabs to anything stationary, from trees to my vehicle, seeking the optimal angle for each job. It worked, but it was far from ideal.

As I transitioned my operations to Dent Evo's Advanced PDR Shop, the need for "tension pulls" became more prominent. Traditional solutions proved limiting; stationary posts were just that - stationary, and suction cups weren't reliable. I craved something stable, adjustable, and capable of multiple pulls from various angles. The Adjust-A-Post PDR Pull Rack was conceived out of necessity.

Harnessing the Power of Tension

Why tension, you ask? It's the linchpin of a cleaner, more efficient repair process. Unlike the traditional PDR method where technicians forcibly manipulate large metal areas using PDR rods or, believe it or not, sometimes even resort to hammer strikes from the inside of the panel - our approach is different.

We apply tension to the panel by attaching specially designed glue tabs to problematic areas and then securing these tabs to a ratchet strap or a “come-along” (aka winch puller). The other end of this setup is anchored to a stable object. This method allows us to move substantial sections of metal cleanly, without causing irreversible damage like kinks, high spots, or cracked paint.

But here's the magic: applying tension within the panel acts like tightening a drum skin. It stabilizes the thin sheet metal, making it more responsive to our movements, especially in the right direction. Pushing, pulling, prying, or even flattening high spots becomes incredibly effective because the metal is now stable and eager to regain its original shape. This phenomenon is particularly noticeable with steel, which tends to conform more efficiently under tension.

Advanced PDR: Beyond Door Dings

Let's clarify – what I practice isn't your everyday door ding PDR. It's advanced PDR, a significant choice for consumers. Why? Because it preserves the vehicle's original paint and condition, maintains resale/trade-in value, and significantly reduces repair time compared to traditional body and paint methods. Moreover, it's an eco-friendly solution, producing no waste and avoiding the use of harmful chemicals.

The Adjust-A-Post in Action

I've created a brief video to showcase the Adjust-A-Post PDR Pull Rack in action, and it's available within this blog post. Seeing the machine at work will give you a firsthand look at the difference it can make. This device is intended for professional use for PDR tension pulls and even light duty power pulls on vehicle sheet metal panels. It is not intended for use in frame straightening, although it was partly inspired by my use of such equipment with the PDR process.

DIY and Professional Use

Now, for the exciting part - I'm not keeping this innovation to myself. I'm offering plans for existing professional PDR and auto body technicians, as well as DIY enthusiasts, to build their Adjust-A-Post PDR Pull Rack. A detailed parts list with purchase links and schematics for optimal rack positioning are included here! While I encourage the DIY spirit, safety is paramount. Proceed with caution and at your own risk.

I've prepared a handy diagram to showcase the optimal positioning of each pull rack, simplifying the process of sliding your posts into position for attachment to the exact point you want to pull.

I’ve positioned my pull rack in a corner of my shop, but this system can be located in virtually any open area at a 90° angle. Remember, you will need enough space to pull a vehicle in from two different angles.

You might notice a slight difference between the line drawing schematic and what you saw in the video. When I initially installed the racks in my shop, I didn't realize that the left-side rack was too close to the other rack, limiting its use. I virtually lost about a foot and a half of post positioning within the rack, as it is too close to the other rack to be of use. By positioning each rack 13 inches away from the walls and each 'leading post' (the ones closest to where both walls meet) 34 inches from their respective walls, you'll be able to maximize the rack's usability with the vehicle parked in the bay. This will allow you to perform both perpendicular as well as lateral pulls simultaneously as needed! The two racks positioned properly will allow you to position a typical sized vehicle into the corner from either direction, and either head in or backed in, whichever half of the vehicle is in need of repair. Technically, you can even mount the strut channels on the wall instead of on posts, however I like to be able to walk behind the pull posts while straps are in place and under tension, so I’m not having to crawl under or climb over the straps or cables as I work from multiple sides of the work area. Also the extra space behind each rack can serve as some additional storage space if needed.

Each rack is built from two 10-foot lengths of 12-gauge strut channel, 'U-bolted' to two 5-foot-tall, 2-inch-wide fence posts with welded flanges at the bottom. Please keep in mind that wider posts can be used in place of these two inch ones and even encouraged, but I have found this setup to be more than capable for my pulling needs. To each rack, I've attached a 5-foot length of 14-gauge strut channel using two strut channel trolleys. Most of these supplies can be found at your local hardware store (while supplies last), except for the trolleys, which are available on Amazon. These trolleys were originally designed for overhead use for electric hoists, so when used sideways as I'm doing on the pull rack system, they don't roll as smoothly as when mounted differently. I'm actively working on improving that for a future update.

These strut channel trollies were originally intended for overhead use for mounting electric hoists, but they are heavy duty and work well for this application!

For drilling into the concrete floor to install the sleeve anchors that secure the posts, I recommend using a commercial-grade Roto Hammer, which you may be able to rent from a local equipment rental company.

Materials You'll Need:

- Four 5-foot tall, 2-inch wide fence posts with welded flanges at the bottom.

- Four 10-foot lengths of 12-gauge strut channel.

- Two 5-foot lengths of 14-gauge strut channel.

- Four strut channel trolleys.

- 16 Sleeve anchors for concrete floor installation.

- Eight U Bolts for fastening the 12 gauge strut channels to the 2 inch posts.

- Nuts and bolts for fastening the 5-foot long 14-gauge strut channel to the trolleys.

- Ratchet straps; virtually any ratchet strap will do.

* I will be experimenting with different equipment and update you on my findings!

- Come-along (AKA winch puller)

-Optional; various heavy duty carabiners and chain. this will allow more mounting options for your straps or cables especially when pulling from the trolley mounts of the posts.

Tools you will need:

-Ratchet & Socket set

-Combination Wrenches

-Roto Hammer with Masonry Bits

-Small Sledge Hammer for tapping sleeve anchors into concrete floor.

-Hack Saw, angle grinder, or cut off saw etc. to cut 14 gauge 10 foot long strut channel in half, to create your pull posts!

Remember to prioritize safety throughout the building and use of the Adjust-A-Post PDR Pull Rack, and always exercise caution when applying tension to vehicle panels. Unlike conventional auto body repair where tabs are being welded to the vehicle and/or frame, with glue and PDR tension pulls and power pulls, your weakest link is going to be the glue and the paint on the vehicle itself, as well as any material (bondo) that is between the paint and the vehicle panel. So keep this in mind when pulling. As mentioned before, use at your own risk, as items can go flying, striking you as the user or others who are within the impact zone. Understand that the pull rack system bay is a dangerous place to be in while the panel is under tension. So please use caution at all times! A towel or blanket hung over the strap or cable, nearest the vehicle, while it is under tension can be used as a weight so that when the glue tab releases, it can readily fall to the floor instead of becoming a dangerous projectile.

If you have any questions or need further guidance, don't hesitate to reach out to me here on Dent Evo Blog. Your success with this setup is important to me!

Embracing Progress

At Dent Evo, I'm committed to staying on the cutting edge of the auto body and collision repair industry. My approach is all about constant evolution, and the Adjust-A-Post PDR Pull Rack is a prime example of my dedication to innovation. With this machine and other advanced tools, I'm pushing the boundaries of what's possible in auto body repair.

In conclusion, the Adjust-A-Post PDR Pull Rack isn't just a tool; it's a reflection of my unwavering commitment to delivering top-notch auto body repair services. I invite you to join me in exploring the world of advanced PDR, whether you're a consumer looking for top-tier repairs or a fellow technician eager to embrace a more efficient, eco-friendly approach. Together, we're reshaping the industry, one dent at a time.
Stay curious, stay safe, and explore the possibilities. Auto body repair is evolving, and I'm thrilled to be leading the way.

Thanks for reading!

-Joe

Golf Ball Dent Repair in La Verne, CA

Are you tired of seeing that unsightly dent on your car? Do you think that the only solution is to have your car repainted? If so, then you need to know about the paintless dent repair (PDR) glue pull method that can save your car’s paint, trade-in value, and your time. In this blog post, I’ll tell you all about this method that I used to restore a beautiful brand new Genesis GV80 for my client in La Verne.

Mobile dent repair to your door. We serve La Verne, CA and the surrounding areas!

Our client’s car had a dent caused by a golf ball strike on the fender. He actually saw it bounce off of the asphalt and right towards his vehicle as he drove by the beautiful Marshall Canyon Golf Course! But try as he may, there was no avoiding it. The ball made direct contact to the front portion of his GV80. He was wise however to seek Paintless Dent Repair. But not just any PDR company would do. He knew that the outcome he wanted was for it to look like it did before it was dented, and not all bumpy or rough with cracked paint, drilled holes or any of that nonsense! He wanted it done right, he wanted it done The Dent Evo Way!

The Glue Pull Method

At first it seemed that I may be able to easily reach the underside of the dent with a PDR tool. Doing so would have allowed me to gently massage the dent back  out from underneath. I use this method often. I soon discovered however that there was a reinforcement brace directly underneath. Since there was limited access behind the dent, I opted to use the glue pull method. This technique involves temporarily adhering a small plastic tab to the dent using hot glue, and then attaching a lifting device to it to carefully pull back the metal slightly higher than level. A drop of isopropyl alcohol neutralizes the small glue droplet, allowing it to easily be peeled off of the panel with no agitation.

I then used a knockdown tool to flatten out the high spots carefully, repeating the process until the metal was level enough to allow me to slide a PDR tool up and under the bracing to finish, methodically pushing up the remaining tiny imperfections.

Do Dents Just Pop Out?

Contrary to popular belief, dents like these don’t just pop out. It requires a lot of technique and experience to remove them without causing any harm to the paint or causing any irreversible damage. Dent Evo has mastered this technique, and our client was amazed by the results.

In the video, you’ll notice that I pulled the plastic tab upward, using the lifting device commonly known in my trade, as a “mini lifter”. I would pull the dent up, and then flatten it back. Each time, the dent becoming shallower and shallower.

So wouldn’t it make sense to just apply more glue and pull even harder, for quicker results? Unfortunately no. Doing so would present a tremendous risk. Doing this could actually remove the paint right off of the vehicle. It happens! But at the very least, if the paint held up, such a violent upward movement of the metal could create a sharp outward dent that could fatigue the metal, creating a very poor quality result. This is why you often see a bumpy, poked up appearance after some PDR repairs. A rushed repair is not a good repair. Conversely, a controlled and methodical approach is optimal for a high quality paintless dent removal.

Our client, had nothing but praise for our work. He said, “this job that Joe just did is amazing. And if you can find the dent, then you’re better than me. So I’m very proud of his work, and I recommend him 100%.”

Dent Evo, is all about providing the best possible service to our clients. We use state-of-the-art equipment to restore your car to its original factory spec condition, using PDR glue pull and other techniques that ensure no damage to your car's paint or structure. We understand that your car is an important investment, and we take care to make sure that it looks as good as new after we’re done.

Mobile Dent Repair Service

If you're in La Verne, California or the surrounding areas, and you're looking for a reliable and trustworthy auto repair shop that specializes in PDR glue pull techniques, then look no further than Dent Evo. We are dedicated to providing the best possible service, and we stand behind our work with a satisfaction guarantee.

How much does dent repair cost?

✅The Assessment* This was the cost for this particular dent repair in April, 2023.

Size: 1 INCH

Depth: MEDIUM

Access: GLUE PDR/OBSTRUCTED

TOTAL: $352.19

💪Repaired in hours, not days or weeks!

🚫NO BODY SHOP HASSLE

🚫NO REPAINTING

🚫NO BUMPY “POKED UP” APPEARANCE

🚫NO CRACKED PAINT

🚫NO VEHICLE REPORT

*Price & Pricing Structure are communicated here, in the spirit of transparency. We are here to help answer any questions you may have about your dent, what’s entailed, and the approximate cost.

In conclusion, the PDR glue pull method is a game-changer for anyone who values their car’s paint, trade-in value, and time. At Dent Evo, we use this technique to restore cars to their original pre-damage condition, providing our clients with top-notch service and quality work. So, if you have a dent in your car, reach out to us, and we’ll get your car looking as good as new in no time.

Dent Removal for the Meticulous

If you are a meticulous person, then you’re in good company! We all know what it feels like to receive that first ding. That’s no fun for anyone, but for those of us who are meticulous in nature, it can be downright devastating!

Attention to detail matters when it comes to PDR!

My client reached out to me after he spotted a tiny dent on his brand new Genesis SUV. Now to be fair, I understand that many people would not be bothered by a tiny indentation like the one on this beautiful GV70. Here at Dent Evo though, we specialize in picky. Because we are picky! And we know you are too, which is why you’re even reading this!

In this video I’ve done my best to give you a Dent Evo Technician’s eye view of the situation. Once again utilizing the reflective lines of my state of the art Paintless Dent Removal (PDR) light. Watch carefully as you can see the lines go from a circular shape to a “pinched together” shape. Then eventually completely straight.

Glue Pull Dent Removal (GPDR)

For this repair I opted to use the glue pull method. This is where we temporarily adhere a small, plastic tab to the dent. We then attach a lifting device to the tab and then pull back. Moving the metal outward in the process. Followed by gently tapping down the raised metal. We repeat this process until it’s completely flat. In this particular case, I chose to use a custom PDR slide-hammer as my lifting device to attach to the tab.

Calculated Risk

The glue pull method does not come without inherent risk. Yanking too hard, on the wrong place at the wrong time can result in paint failure. This is when the car’s paint may literally chip right off the door panel. It can happen in the shape of a tiny nick, or even a large cornflake. It can separate the clear coat from the paint, leaving an irregular spot of “matte finish”. Or it can pull paint right off the car, revealing factory primer or even bare metal underneath. Regardless, it’s not a good thing, and it’s the last thing I wish to do to my client’s new car!

The Right Sequence

If you notice, I pull back gently on the tab several times, moving little bits of the metal incrementally. This as opposed to just violently yanking as much metal out as possible. Additionally, you can see in the video that I started pulling nearest the leading edge of the door. It’s even more crucial that I pull gently. Paint at the edges and corners is typically thinner, even from the manufacturer! This is due to how the paint settles as it was sprayed onto the panel.

Pulling from the edge and working my way backward also helps by releasing any pressure along the edge first. Moving the metal in the reverse order could likely cause tension lock within the panel. This would make it very difficult to remove cleanly and effectively. Reducing our shallow, broader dent into a tighter diameter ding right next to the edge. Creating a scenario where more aggressive movement of the metal is required, thus introducing more risk of paint failure.

Additionally, pulling the tab while the glue is still relatively tacky, lessens the chance of paint failure. This is called a “wet pull”. I also use this method when working on older, more brittle paints or paint finishes that have been compromised. Using the wet pull technique is essentially taking baby steps in order to once again mitigate any risks. In this case because we were working so close to that edge. This is why a proper, mindful assessment of the damage, even for the tiniest of dings, is so critical.

Push or Pull

If you’ve watched past videos of my repairs, you may have seen me working down through the window channel. This is where I slide a felt lined window guard safely down the door. Gently fitting it between the glass and the outer shell (skin) of the door. This allows me to carefully slide a pdr rod down into the door. Followed by twisting the tool, leveraging it against the window guard and thus moving the dented metal back into shape.

At the beginning of the video you may notice the window rolling down. Initially I checked for access behind the dent but determined it was a bit too tight to fit a tool safely down the door. The glue pull process deemed to be the best solution, although utilizing it as gingerly as possible.

Dent Different

Can you believe that some so called PDR experts will literally drill a hole in the edge of the door in order to access a dent like this? They then proceed to stick a tiny pdr rod into the door edge. Speedily twisting the tool, leaving poc marks and a pimply appearance where the dent was. We call this “Dent Different”. They don’t fix the dent, they just make it look different. Personally I think I’d rather live with the dent!

The Cost

Price for a dent like this is determined by size, location (on vehicle), and accessibility. Here’s the breakdown of this repair:

Size: 1 INCH

Location: Leading Edge RRD

Access: GLUE PDR

TOTAL: $306.25

In closing, I really enjoyed making this video because it shows the very basic fundamentals of metal movement during the PDR process, when performed correctly.

If you have a dent and you are near the Claremont / Upland areas, feel free to have us take a look at your dent or ding. You may click the button below to see the types of dents we fix as well as the cost for each one. And of course if you have any questions about anything PDR, don’t hesitate to reach out!

Advanced Paintless Dent Removal on a Harley Davidson Motorcycle Fender

If you own a motorcycle, you know how important it is to keep it looking great. Unfortunately, accidents happen, and dents can occur. With Dent Evo Advanced Paintless Dent Removal (PDR), those unsightly dents can be removed without having to repaint your motorcycle's fender.

Removing a dent the DENT EVO way.

At Dent Evo, we specialize in Advanced PDR techniques that allow us to remove dents from your motorcycle quickly and cleanly. One of the most important things to understand about PDR is that it's all in the reflection. When you watch our video, you'll see the lines on the motorcycle fender go from distorted to straight as we work to remove the dent. This is how we know when we've done an exceptional job.

Slower is Faster

The key to successful PDR is taking the time to do it right. A very wise person once said, "Slower is Faster”, in reference to doing good clean work the right way, the first time. We know that it can be tempting to rush through a repair job, but taking the time to get it right is essential. In fact, this particular Harley fender took us a couple of hours to repair, even though the video shows it being completed in just under a minute.

On or Off

Our client brought his motorcycle fender to us. This made for a better result as we were able to work the metal on our stand, from multiple angles.

Hammer Away

What’s with all the hammering? In the video, that’s the first thing you see. The knock down tool. That’s that red device that I am holding in the first frame. Notice that on the tip is a little patch of leather. That is our barrier between the tip of the tool and the beautiful Harley clearcoat. This mitigates the risk of scratching the paint. It is necessary to use the “knockdown technique“ in order to first relieve any pressure around the perimeters of the dent. What I am doing is gently moving subtle waves that were formed around the perimeter of the dent. As well as flattening out high spots created when someone attempted to push the dent out themselves. If you look carefully, you’ll see what appears to be high spots right near the dent. Someone tried to fix this dent, applying some pressure underneath but stopping before they could create irreversible damage. Flattening these high spots is vital before applying pressure from underneath. This makes for a very clean repair as it relaxes tension within the metal.

Motorcycle Dents are Stubborn

Performing paintless dent removal on motorcycle parts like fuel tanks and fenders can be challenging, particularly when it comes to locating the tool tip without causing further damage. In order to restore the metal back to its original shape, gentle pressure is applied underneath the dent. However, due to the thickness and curvature of the part, it can be difficult to identify where the pushes are. Technicians rely on the reflection of the lines on the paint to guide them. Motorcycle metal can be stubborn, which increases the risk of creating irreversible damage if not careful. A repair that has been rushed may result in pointy high spots or even cracked paint.

Did You Remember To Cross-Check?

Another important aspect of Motorcycle PDR (and dent removal in general) is cross-checking. This is where we move the light at different angles to ensure that we've fixed the dent completely. It's important to cross-check because a lot of PDR companies will fix a dent so that it looks good from one angle but looks terrible from another.

At Dent Evo, we take the time to do it right, so your motorcycle looks great from every angle.

It’s What’s Inside That Counts; Scratching

The pushing and moving of metal during dent repair is important, but the inside of the part is also a crucial concern when fixing dents on motorcycle tanks and fenders. Unfortunately, many dent removal service providers overlook this, especially those offering low prices. In the video, you can see that I use cloth tape on the tool tips to create a barrier between the tooltip and the painted inner surface of the fender. This prevents any chance of scoring the E coat on the underside surface. It's easy to scratch the panel up while trying to remove the dent, which is why I use hard plastic (Delrin) tool tips instead of metal. This reduces the chance of the tip wearing through the cloth tape, particularly since heat up to 150° is applied to the dented surface. All these efforts are aimed at preventing any long-term corrosion under the fender or inside of a fuel tank, as rusty fuel tanks are never appreciated by motorcyclists.

A plastic “Delrin” tool tip by Dent Craft Tools. Wrapped with cloth tape, creates a soft push that doesn't scratch the undercoating. Due to the thickness and curvature of fender and tank metal, pushing in the right place is the biggest challenge.

Heat It Up

Yes, we also do use heat. Applying heat does soften the metal a bit. More importantly, heat creates elasticity temporarily within the clear coat. Harley Davidson clear coats and paints can tend to be brittle at lower temperatures. So using heat up to around 150 degrees prevents the paint from cracking. Cracked paint can at worst look like a chip or splintered surface. At the very least, it can create a “milky” appearance within the dent. This is when micro fractures have been created after a technician rushed the repair, and didn’t apply heat. The heat itself does not adversely affect the paint or metal, as long as it is kept within a safe operating temperature.

Your Motorcycle dent Repair Resource

If you're wondering how much it costs to remove a dent from your motorcycle's fender, the price starts at $300 for the first inch and $100 for each additional inch, plus factors like depth, location (on part), and metal type.

At Dent Evo, we specialize in saving the paint on your motorcycle. We know that repainting your motorcycle can decrease its resale value. While the dent itself is just plain unacceptable. That's why we use advanced PDR techniques to remove dents without having to repaint your motorcycle's fender. Our techniques are better than those used by a traditional body shop because we can preserve your motorcycle's original factory paint and condition.

In conclusion, if you're in the Claremont California area and need Paintless Dent Removal on your Harley Davidson motorcycle fender, then Dent Evo has got you covered. We take the time to do it right, using cross-checking and advanced techniques to ensure that your motorcycle looks great from every angle. For more information, please visit our website at https://dentevo.com/motorcycle-dents, and remember, "Slower is Faster."

The Challenge of an "Oil Can" on a Mercedes SUV

As a professional Paintless Dent Repair (PDR) technician, I am always up for a challenge. So when this Mercedes SUV came my way with a deep dent on the back hatch, I knew it was going to require all the techniques and equipment at my disposal.

What in the heck is an oil can?

But what made it even more challenging was the fact that the damage was an "oil can". In auto body lingo, this is when sheet metal becomes fatigued after being dented, popping in and out like a soda pop can or an oil can back in the day. This is not an ideal scenario as it will leave either a mound or a dent, but it will not remain flat.

The Car Body Heater Arc Machine, solving the oil can conundrum.

This Is Not Average Paintless Dent Repair

But I was not deterred. With the advancements in PDR equipment and techniques, I was able to take on this challenging repair. Utilizing all the techniques, all the equipment, and all the hard lessons learned over many years, I was able to perform an Advanced Paintless Dent Repair on this Mercedes SUV.

Using lateral tension, perpendicular tension, and heat induction by way of a car body heater arc machine, these advanced techniques allowed me to cleanly remove the damage to factory spec level.

Better Than Body Shop

The results were on par with traditional body and paint repair, only better because despite some existing minor scratches, we were able to preserve the original, factory paint and condition of the car for our customer. This is a big deal because by preserving their car’s original, factory paint and condition, our client was able to retain its resale/trade-in value. Additionally, the repair was completed at their location in hours, not weeks or months if it had been repaired at a traditional body shop.

In the attached video you can see great detail of the process in use on this particular damage, showcasing the dented metal actually moving back out to a factory spec level.

If you’re interested in learning more about the art and science of paintless dent removal, please be sure to sign up for the Dent Evo blog below or check back in to see new updates! And as always, thank you for taking the time to read this post.


✌️-Joe Garcia

Shopping Cart Dent on Leading Edge of Door

One day, my client walked out of the grocery store only to find a shopping cart up against the passenger side of his vehicle. The cart had hit so hard that it left a mark and two deep, sharp dents on the leading edge of the passenger front door. On top of that, a reinforcement brace behind the dent made access to the damage quite difficult, especially since the damage overlapped the edge of the door and left a slight outward crease.

I carefully removed two deep dents on the leading edge of this Subaru door.

Beginning with the End in Mind

When it comes to dents like these, it's essential to assess the damage properly from the beginning to come up with an effective repair plan. It's also important to address potential paint issues. In this case, I found black blemishes on the door that were removable with rubbing alcohol. However, light scratches were present underneath the blemishes. I informed my client about the repair and what he could expect afterward, including the fact that the scratches would remain even after the dents were removed. He decided to proceed with my method.

Access Down the Window Channel

To repair the dent, I needed to access behind the panel. While there are times when I need to disassemble interior trim or remove a door to access the damage, I was able to gain access safely through the window channel with the window down. I use a window guard that is felt-lined to protect the glass, and a slim wedge to insert a PDR tool down into the door. I used a tool called a "whale tale" to carefully slide it between the inside of the door panel and the intrusion beam. I then read the reflection of the backlit lines on my reflection device to twist the handle of the tool, leveraging the metal back outward.

Saving the Paint

After a few hours of carefully shaping the metal, I was able to restore the panel's shape and ultimately save the beautiful pearlescent white paint on the Subaru door. My client saved the resale value of his car and a lot of time.

Contact Dent Evo for Quality Dent Repair

If you have a dent or ding on your vehicle, don't hesitate to contact Dent Evo. We specialize in paintless dent repair and are dedicated to providing our clients with the best service possible. Contact us today for more information!








Repairing Aluminum Car Door Dents with PDR

If you're wondering whether we can remove dents from aluminum, the answer is yes. We can also polish out superficial scratches and blemishes too. In this blog post, I'm going to show you how I repaired the deep, 2 inch crease on a Ford Bronco aluminum door using the Paintless Dent Removal method, and how I polished the scratch out as best as possible.

A real world PDR repair on the aluminum door of this new Ford Bronco.

The Truth About Perfect Repairs

I'll start by saying that this repair was not completely flawless. While I aim for perfection, this was a case where significant improvement was to be expected. PDR is genuinely handcrafting the metal back to its original shape while preserving the original, factory paint finish. This is why the initial assessment of the damage is crucial for strategizing an effective repair plan, and why skills, technique, and experience are imperative to a successful PDR outcome.

The Benefits of Paintless Dent Repair

Sometimes, depending on the initial damage, a significant improvement is the expected result. That being said, arguably this result is ultimately better than having the door and adjacent panels repainted at a body shop. By using the Paintless dent repair method, the owner of this Bronco avoided many costly missteps, including a CarFax vehicle report, repainting of the door and adjacent panels, and of course the hassle that comes with dealing with a body shop.

Working with Aluminum

Aluminum car door panels can be tricky to remove dents from. While you might think the metal would be as soft as an aluminum can, it is actually quite the opposite. The aluminum on modern cars is in my opinion tougher than traditional steel door panels and more dent resistant too. When removing dents from aluminum car panels, we utilize the same methods as we do on steel, however, our techniques require substantially more effort. Meaning, we have to strike it harder, we have to isolate our pushes more intensively, and we have to use heat in scenarios where we wouldn't necessarily have to when working with traditional carbon steel. The heat helps to soften the aluminum, as it can be very rigid. This is why assessing the damage thoroughly before performing a paintless dent removal is so crucial.

The Benefits of PDR Over Traditional Repair

By using PDR, the original factory paint finish is preserved, and there is no need to replace the entire panel, making it a more cost-effective solution. I've also seen aluminum do some crazy things, like regain its rigidity and stability after extensively working the metal on a deep large dent that was seemingly fatigued.

Scratch Repair

Very often, I come across dents that have a blemish. Sometimes what appears to be a scratch is actually residue from the object that created the dent. Before addressing a transfer, I always inform my client of the possibility of an existing scratch or abrasion underneath the residue. In the case of this Bronco, after flattening the metal, I was able to polish out most of the abrasion using a very fine 3M abrasive called Trizact 3000.

Conclusion

Aluminum dents can be repaired with PDR, but it's not without its challenges. Working with aluminum requires skill, technique, and experience, which are imperative to a successful PDR outcome. PDR is a cost-effective solution that preserves the original factory paint finish, and it can result in better outcomes than traditional body shop repairs.



Removing Dents on Body Lines: A Paintless Dent Repair Success Story

This beautiful blue Subaru BRZ was struck by a falling ladder in the garage. To my client’s dismay, there were a couple small dents left on the rear panel body line. In this video you can see me remove a dent using the Paintless dent repair method.

Clean, Clean, Clean dent repair work is the way it should be!

Many people don’t believe that dents can be removed from body lines, contours, or style lines. Many so-called professional dent guys don’t believe that body line dents can be removed flawlessly. Often times after drilling an unnecessary hole, these animals will try and work the dent out as quickly as possible so they can get onto the next job, leaving it looking bumpy and poked up.


No sir. That’s not how we do it at Dent Evo. Much emphasis is put on clean, clean, clean dent repair work. Ultimately, the goal is to leave it looking like nothing ever even happened.


And that is what we were able to do on this Soobie. Using my state of the art LED light to cast a deep and stark reflection over the dent, I was able to see deeply into the pit, being able to push cleanly and methodically, ultimately “turning the dent inside out”, and then carefully “knocking down” the high spots to bring it back down flat. I repeated this process several times until the metal was completely flat again. Followed by a gentle two-stage polishIng with some finesse foam pads.


My goodness that blue sure is purdy. Thanks for reading!





#PaintlessDentRepair #BodyLineDents #DentRemoval #FlawlessRepair #SubaruBRZ #GarageAccident #LEDLight #MetalRestoration #RupesFoamPads

Unfurled: A Collaboration Between PDR and The Car-O-Liner

I recently had the pleasure of collaborating with the team at Green Tech Collision Center in Upland, California to repair a 2022 Honda Accord that had been backed into in the driveway. The owner of the car knew he didn't want it repainted, since it was brand new, and so he did some research and found my videos showcasing the power of Paintless Dent Removal (PDR).

Why re-paint this beautiful, brand new car if it’s not absolutely necessary?


The Green Tech team has a state of the art facility and a Car-O-Liner frame machine, which I knew would be perfect for the job. It allowed us to restore the car's quarter panel and side to their original condition without the need to repaint.


The thin gauge sheet metal of modern vehicles can be very tricky to work with. The old days of simply sticking a PDR rod behind the panel and attempting to push large areas of metal back into shape are over. Instead, I used the advanced glue pull method to create tension perpendicularly and laterally to the dent, which proved to be the best way to cleanly move the metal back where it needed to go. This method is less likely to cause fatigue or overwork the metal, resulting in a cleaner repair overall.


I had a blast working with Nestor and the team at Green Tech Collision Center, and I couldn't be happier with the results of the repair. My client was thrilled to be able to retain his brand new vehicle’s original factory paint and resale value as a result of us “keeping the repair small”, as we say in the business. I’m sure there will be more frame machine/PDR collaborations in our future, so stay tuned!


I know now that I have completely crossed the threshold of full on geekdom with my trade. Perhaps all passion really is, is the mind's way of making it all tolerable. Or maybe I've just found my groove. I dig it. I hope you do too.

If you're in the Upland, California area and need collision repair services, I highly recommend checking out Green Tech Collision Center. You can contact them at (909) 256-4037 or visit their website at www.greentechcollision.com. You can also follow them on Instagram at @greentechcollision.


And if you're in need of PDR services, don't hesitate to contact me at DENT EVO. You can visit my website at www.dentevo.com or follow me on Instagram at @dentevo. Let's keep those dents at bay!


#PDR #CarRepair #CollisionRepair #GreenTechCollision #DENTEVO #CarOLiner #Collaboration #AutoBodyRepair #UplandCA #AutoRepair

#SaveThePaint #PDRTensionPull

The Components of a Complex Dent Repair

“Small, But Mighty”

Hi there! It’s been a while but I’m back at ya to speak my mind about the PDR process from a highly technical point of view!


This time around, I’m talking about a complex ding removal that I performed on this Porsche 911 (see video).

Joe demonstrates a challenging little ding removal on this Porsche Carrera.


This deep, 2 inch ding on the wheel arch/body line was probably caused by the typical swinging car door.

While it may be small, this type of door ding is the epitome of a complex dent.

Why?

Because deep dents of any size are tough to move back out cleanly, that is without leaving it all bumpy and poked up looking (or even harming the paint).

But couple this with it being located on a body line, and even worse, completely obstructed by a second layer of metal right behind the dent, then we have all the components of a very technical and challenging repair.

I was able to gain access by sliding in a thin tool, called a whale tail, from the tail light section of the vehicle.

“Tools of the trade”… Ultra Thin Whale Tails from Dent Craft PDR Tools. These are what we use to gently re-sculpt the metal in hard to reach areas. Skill & patience are tremendous virtues in this craft!

Dent Craft Ultra Thin Whale Tails

Dent Craft Ultra Thin Whale Tails at Anson PDR

Ratchet Handle Whale Tail Tools from A-1 PDR Tools

There was a minor existing blemish in the paint that I was able to improve upon with a good “wet sand and polish”.

Thanks for geeking out with me! And if you have questions about your dent, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me!

-Joe

Welcome! First Blog Post

But I suppose since you’re reading this, you and I will from here on out “talk dents”, like it’s very important stuff. Because it is. It’s important to me, because it’s important to the other person who’s relying on me to rid them of their problem. It’s important to you because well, you’re reading this! And thank you for that by the way.

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